Another long flight from Boston with a change at Amsterdam, but at least I had upgraded to economy plus, so there was more legroom. Picked up my luggage at the Copenhagen airport, and much to my relief, and a welcome change from last year, I was met right away by my driver, who spoke flawless English, and with whom I was able to chat and try out my limited Danish. Checked into the hotel late morning, but had to leave my luggage at reception, as the room was not yet ready. Set out to explore a little and have lunch. I was looking for Lillian’s Smørrebrød, which had been recommended in the VBT handout, but it turned out to be a considerable walk from the hotel, and it also happened that it being Sunday, it was closed. Grr. I found another another restaurant on the way back, and did have a smørrebrød, a Danish open-faced sandwich. It’s an acquired taste. It became obvious that the popular ways of getting around Copenhagen were by bike, and also to a considerable extent by electric scooter, which also later proved to be the case in Stockholm. After lunch I returned to the hotel and checked into my room, rested a little, and then headed to Tivoli Gardens, which was only a couple blocks from the hotel. I exchanged my concert/park download for a ticket, and entered. It was interesting to see all the rides, but I was tired and didin’t feel like trying them, and certainly not the wilder ones! After some exploring I found the entrance to the concert hall, which was around the back, as if they didn’t want you to go in, but I got to the auditorium, found my seat, and settled back for a recital by the Russian pianist Arcadi Volodos. Unfortunately as the lights went down and the concert began, jet lag caught up with me, and I was not fully attentive. Nonetheless, he demonstrated remarkable technique, and played several encores, which I normally would have welcomed, but in my worn down state would have preferred fewer. After the concert I walked around and explored Tivoli a little more, then returned to the hotel for a brief stop and went to dinner. There was not a whole lot to choose from this Sunday evening, but I found a place close to the hotel and had a ground beef dish that inspired longing for airline food. Then it was back to the hotel to collapse and rest up for the next day.
On Monday I was feeling better. The previous day I had noticed that the new subway stop nearest the hotel was not complete, so after breakfast I asked the front desk if the new metro line was in fact finished. The bimbo there assured me it was and that I could get on at the central train station, a few blocks away. When I got to the station, there was no subway entrance to be found, so I checked at an information desk and discovered that the new line was still incomplete, but that I could get to Østerport on the regular train, which departed frequently. So I got my ticket, boarded, and got got off at Osterport, whence I walked about half a kilometer to The Little Mermaid statue, and got a picture after squeezing through the tourists from the Chinese tour buses. After The Little Mermaid I walked back towards the hotel, through Kastellet, an old fort now used for military administration. From Kastellet I walked down Bredgade, past Amalienborg palace and Frederikskirke to Nyhaven, a charming gentrified, old port with elbow to elbow restaurants on the north side and apartments with an occasional store on the south. After having lunch there, I walked to Kong’s Nytorv, then back to the hotel, making a couple wrong turns, but getting there eventually. I rested up a little, then went to supper at Fleisch on Slagterboderne, and had a pork dish. Returning to the hotel, I checked out the upstairs lounge, read a little, and went to bed.
Thesday was the day I had arranged to tour the Opera House, and it looked as if a lot of walking was in store, so it was back to the train station for a ride to Nørreport, then the metro to Kongens Nytorv. From there it was on foot through Nyhaven, across a couple of foot bridges to the Holmen district, and further on to the Operaen. It is on an island across the bay from the Amalienborg palace, and can be reached by car only by a very circuitous route. So the only other access really is by bike, scooter, or foot. Not quite true. There is a ferry stop there, and one did stop while I was waiting, but they are infrequent except when there is a performance, in which case they run as need from Nyhaven. I wasn’t sure how long it would take to get there, so I overcompensated, ot there before i expected, and waited quite a while before the tour. But it was worth it. We had a lovely guide named Vika, and saw a lot, in the auditorium, the lobbies, backstage, and the chamber theater. After the tour I walked back toward Nyhaven, and had lunch at the market at at Grønands Handles Plads. When I had finished, I walked back to Kongens Nytorv, took the subway to Nørreport and the train to the central station, walking from there to the hotel to rest. For dinner I went to Frk. Barners Kælder on Helgolandsgade. While I was there a couple came in who were talking about what sounded like the same tour, so I said hello, and they turned out to be Beverly and Glen. then it was back to the hotel and bed.