Left Boston on September 5 on Air France for Paris. Arrived early the morning of the 6th, and after passport control, was met by a VBT representative who put me in a taxi to Paris. Came in from the west, skirting the Arc de Triomphe and dropped me at Hotel Chateau Frontenac a block away from the Champs Elysées. After checking in and ascertaining that the concierge had indeed gotten my concert tickets, I took off for sightseeing. Got my 3-day Paris Visites transit pass & a subway map at the FDR station, and hopped on the subway for Place de la Concorde. Following Mike's suggestion, went to Smith bookstore on Rue de Rivoli and got my Plan de Paris par Arrondissment. Then off to Place de la Bastille. From there went to Palais Garnier. Rehearsals were going on, so the auditorium was off limits, but it was possible to wander the public areas. Walked back towards Place de la Concorde through the Place Vendome, looking for a restaurant, and finally settled on Restaurant L'Ardoise, for the best meal I had during my stay. After lunch got on the metro again to the Champs de Mars and walked to the Eiffel Tower. Walked up to the first level, which was high enough for me. An amazing piece of engineering and architecture, and wonderfully maintained, a lesson the USA might profit from. After that walked down to the Seine and took a boat ride as far a Notre Dame and back, seeing interesting bridges and other things of interest. Walked down the Seine to the metro, and took it to Brasserie Lorraine, where I made reservations for dinner the following night. Came back to the hotel and rested a bit, then went to Bofinger for dinner. (Also very good.) On the way back stopped at Place de la Concorde again, for a wonderful view up the Champs and across to the Eiffel Tower. Tried a visit to the Arc de Triomphe, but it was too near closing time, and visitors were no longer being admitted. Back to the hotel via a walk down the Champs for some overdue sleep.
Day two started with petit déjeuner at the hotel, then an exploration of the Tuileries, starting at the Place de la Concorde and working on to the Louvre. Got in the entrance line at the Pyramid—it moved pretty quickly—paid my admission, and went to the Richelieu wing, where I thought the crowds would be less overpowering, probably correct. Saw some wonderful Flemish/German paintings and saw the royal quarters of Louis XVIII and the pocket dictator Napoleon III. Had déjeuner at a cafe in the Tuileries, and made my way across the Pont Neuf to the Ile de la Cité. Strolled along the south shore to Sainte Chapelle, but the lines were too long, so I continued on to Notre Dame and took an English language tour. Crossed over th bridge to Ile St. Louis, and explored briefly, then back across the bridge where masseuses were giving neck/back massages. It felt good! By this time it was mid-afternoon and I was growing tired, so I made my way back to the hotel, rested a bit, and dressed for the evening concert. Had dinner at Brasserie Lorraine (good, but not outstanding) and took in the Pittsburg Symphony playing at Salle Pleyel. After the concert took the subway to the Arc de Triomphe and again walked down the Champs to the hotel.
Petit déjeuner again at the hotel to start the last day, then on to Sainte Chapelle. Even though I was early, there was still a line, but undeterred I waited it out. It was worth it. The stained glass windows were fabulous. Next on my to do list was Musée d'Orsay, so I crossed over the river and got on the RER. Signage was not as obvious to a non-French speaker as on the subway, so I was either going to end up at the Musée or at Austerlitz station, from where I could always hop on a train in the opposite direction with nothing lost but some time, but in the event I guessed right and got off at the Musée stop. Got a twofer pass for Musée d'Orsay and the Orangerie. The Musée was a wonderful museum. It has a terrific collection and is less crowded than the Louvre, which made it all the more inviting to me. After finishing there, I found a nice little cafe nearby where I had my déjeuner, then walked across the Seine back to the Tuileries to the Orangerie. It was just starting to rain, so I ducked in just in the nick of time. The Monet murals were not really to my taste, but the collection downstairs was certainly worth seeing. The rain had mostly abated when I left, and I got on the subway to the Arc. This time I got in and had some good views of Paris from the top. Strolled back down the Champs to the hotel, and rested up a little before dressing for dinner. This time it was at Au Pied du Cochon, where I decided to try the house specialty, but the pig's feet were a big mistake. Nothing but fat, gristle, and bone. Was saved by the French fries. After dinner went to Opera Bastille for Salome (not a bad production, and well sung.) At this point I was pretty much touristed out, so it was back to the hotel for a night's sleep before the trip to the Loire the next day.